The second one is as strong as love
The third one is as bitter as death" (Maghrebi proverb)
 |
| Mint tea is specially consumed in summer |
Atay or Moroccan tea is a traditional and a central element within the social life of the Maghrebi countries. It is so enrooted in the daily routine that one could barely understand key aspects and habits of this area without a proper approach to it. Indeed, it trascends the fact of being a mere drink to become a sort of symbol of a wide range of core values in this particular culture.
Whereas cooking affairs are, traditionally in the Maghreb, a women's business, making tea used to be a male one. On the one hand, it would show the love and welcoming of the complete family by being its head the responsible for the whole process. Mr. Awadi, on the other hand, also adds that this was also the case because "women could not see men (guests) at home". This has changed along the years and now is normal to share this experience around the table with all the members.
Manners say that one must offer three glasses of tea to the guest, who has to accept and drink them because otherwise it would be very impolite. It would look like refusing greetings from your host. The amount of time that tea has been steeping gives each of the three glasses a unique flavour as described in the proverb on top of this article. However, despite the strenght of cultural keystones showed in the Arab world, neither Morocco nor any other territory of this area is free of the influence of urban currents, therefore remaining this specific custom much more alive within Berber communities than in cities, where it is quite much gone.
Fun, history and health
Marrakesh, Essaouira, Safi, Meknes...regardless of where one finds oneself in Morocco, he/she will see that atay is served all through the day keeping in mind, though, that "the most important one is early at breakfast" as Mr. Awadi reminds. Then, it is evident the popularity of its consumption, with tea bars filling a similar social function to alcohol-selling pubs in Europe. Let's not lose sight of the fact that this is a mainly Muslim country and so Koran suggests not to drink spirits. As the Andalusia-based seller jokes, "it is like the Moroccan whisky because it lets you happy without hangover". Actually, people in this Maghrebi nation may start drinking it as early as being just six months old.
 |
| Water, tea leaves, sugar and mint for an atay |
Tea, the most consumed drink in the world after water, was introduced in Morocco in 1845, when British traders, desperate by the block of the Crimea war, unloaded the product coming from the Far East at the docks of current Tangier and Essaouira. With China remaining as the main provider of these leaves to the region, its combination with originally shipped-in sugar and local ingredients (fresh mint or wormwood/chiiba) has made it, to some extent, one of the earliest examples of globalization in cuisine.
As heirs of one of the most advanced civilizations, specially in Medicine, as Islam, Moroccans still use natural remedies to deal with health issues. This is the case, for instance, to deal with flue as Mr. Awadi underlines. "When we get some flue, we normally drink orange blossom tea and then cover with many blankets as both make you sweat a lot, and so get rid of the toxins". Other healthy features attached to tea lie on the cold sensation left in the mouth and the respiratory tract, or the reduction of cholesterol since it erases fat.
Preparation and serving ceremony
 |
| A man pouring from high up | Picture: Khalid Talbi |
After collecting all this knowledge about tea, these are the steps to prepare it as a true Moroccan. There are many different ways depending on regions and areas. What follows is Mr. Awadi's suggestion.
Firstly, we need to boil some water in a pot different to the one used for serving. The best way to proceed is on coal or wood (gas if there is not any of these) because "it kills the bacteria". Many bars in Morocco currently do it on electrical fire or specific machines "which are not as effective" as the ones mentioned. The latter should be the last resource.
After this, tea and sugar must be added in the serving pot, being 4011 the best tea according to Mr. Awadi. Fill it with the water used before and boil it all together. The leaves will start opening and spreading its flavour all over the recipient. Sugar, on the other hand, will get a bit caramelised and mixed with the liquid.
When it reaches the boiling point, it is time to decrease the intensity of the fire and remove the pot. Following this, a small bunch of herbs is included to give it some flavour. As Mr. Awadi highlights, "mint is widely used in summer because it helps you cope with the heat, whereas wormwood (chiiba) is for winter as it keeps you warm". Just a few more seconds boiling all together and the beverage will be ready.
The process is not yet finished though. Serving and pouring is as important and relevant as preparing, and it presents a whole ceremony behind it. Tea is poured from high up in small, narrow glasses thus fulfilling three main objectives: in terms of taste, it allows the liquid to get oxygened by "breaking" when in touch with the bottom of the vessel; olfactory speaking, it spreads the aroma all around the room as the steam contains the smell of the mix; and aesthectically, it makes a foam that Mr. Awadi funnily calls "the turbant of the tea". Once in the glass, it must be poured back to the pot and so on for a few times before finally taking it. This will give some more strenght to the liquid itself as well as expanding the sugar, herbs and leaves by using the own water as a conducting means.
Then it is just a matter of enjoying and discussing the thousands of millions of topics that Moroccans do like talking about and sharing with everyone. Why not about tea itself too? Indeed, there can be a huge study after this as we have read through. Besseha! !بالصحة (Cheers!)